The sun is strong
and the air is warming up in the Bay
Area. It makes me think about Napoli. I miss Napoli! Since I was young, images of Napoli have always
been irresistible to me:
sun, blue sky,
songs, sea, vibrant people... and delicious food, of course – pizza, spaghetti,
ice cream. Naples did not disappoint the first time I visited there 10 summers
Napoli is better explained by Lildia Matticchio Bastianich in
her book, Lidia’s Italy: “Naples
is a very special city where life is palpable. You sense it the moment you get
there. You are caught up in the energy and you become part of the life there,
especially when walking the winding cobblestone streets of the Centro Storico.
The moment is now, and although there are three thousand years of rich history
in Naples, life is very much in the present tense. In the streets, children
play hide-and-seek and chase stray cats; laundry lines full of clothes hang
from one window to another like festival banners. Music belches forth from open
windows, modern rock and traditional stornelli
folk songs, clashing in the air. There is the wafting aroma of the ragù perking
behind some open windows, the inviting smell of fritto misto floating from others; laughter, discussions, and arguments
all spill onto the streets and are part of the Neapolitan way of life….. I fell
in love with the Neapolitans in Naples. I fell in love with their zest for
life, the communal beat of the city where everyone is included. And I fell in
love with their food.”
It is all so true, and I felt exactly the same, despite seeing
the chaotic reality of city life… wild teenagers on their mopeds on backstreets,
and trash piled high on the sidewalks that never seems to be picked up. But
the city has spectacularly beautiful scenery on
the other hand… and of course abundant delicious food.
I enjoyed Napoli very much; it became my
favorite place in Italy.
And the Neapolitan desserts! There are pasticcerie all over Naples. They offer so many delicious
pastries, among the most famous being sfogliatelle,
shell-shaped layers of flaky pastry filled with pastry cream, and the babàs
al rhum. This recipe, using limoncello (lemon liquor, a southern
Italian specialty) instead of the typical rum syrup, will make you taste Naples
and feel Neapolitan. I guarantee it!
Babas Infused with
(Babà al Limoncello)
adapted and modified from Lidia’s Italy by Lidia Matticchio
Makes 12 small babas
For the dough:
1 package (2 teaspoons) dry yeast
2 ¼ cups all-purpose flour (1 cup can be whole-grain pastry
flour if desired)
Pinch of salt
2 tablespoons sugar
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 stick (4 oz) unsalted butter, softened, plus more for
the bowl and molds
For the syrup:
1/2 cup (2 lemons) freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 cups water
2 ½ cups sugar
½ cup limoncello
Whipped cream, Pastry cream (custard cream) or cannoli cream
for the filling or decoration
Candied cherries or fresh berries for garnish
To make the dough,
dissolve the yeast in 2 tablespoons warm water in a small bowl and let it sit
for several minutes until it starts to bubble. Put the flour, salt and sugar in
bowl of food processor, and run the machine for a few seconds to blend the dry
Mix the beaten eggs with the dissolved yeast. With the
food processor running, pour all liquid into the flour mixture, and process for
20 seconds or so. A stiff dough will gather on the blade and clean the side of
bowl. Now drop in the soft butter, and
process for another 20-30 seconds, until it is fully incorporated.
Turn the soft dough out onto the board, knead by hand
briefly to form a smooth round, and drop it into a lightly buttered bowl. Cover
it with plastic wrap, and let the dough rise for 30 minutes or so---It does not
need to double.
Butter the baba molds. Deflate the dough, and cut it into
twelve equal pieces (about 2 ounces each), or fewer, or more, depending on size
and number of pans used. Roll each piece into a round, and place dough in the
molds/pans to fill them two-thirds full. Let the babas expand to fill the
molds, about 30 minutes or more.
Meanwhile, heat the oven to 400°F, arranging two racks if necessary.
Bake the babas for 15-20 minutes (30+ for larger pans), or until they are dark
golden on top; shift the pans on the racks for even baking. Turn them out of
the pans and cool.
To make the syrup,
bring 2 cups water, the lemon juice and sugar to a full boil in a wide
skillet or sauté pan (12” or wider); add the limoncello and boil for 4-5
minutes. Turn off the heat and immediately push as many babas as will fit into
the hot syrup, weighing them down with a plate or pot cover to keep them submerged. When
they have soaked up enough syrup to expand, about 10 minutes, remove them from
the pan and drain on wire rack set over a large plate. If you have more babas
to soak, heat the syrup to boil again, then submerge another batch.
Serve the soaked babas within a short time, or set them,
sitting in a shallow layer of syrup, in a pan to stay moist. For serving, slice
them in half lengthwise (or leave whole for small ones), and spoon in your
filling and candied or fresh fruits. You may drizzle some warm syrup over the
top if you like.
Note: If you do not have baba molds, use mini cake
molds or 2 medium-size Bundt pans. I used a large Bundt pan for the photos above,
and baked it in the middle of the oven. For the dough making, it is best to use a
stand mixer with a paddle attachment. However, if you are using a food
processor it should be at least a 12-cup bowl capacity to do the job for
The babas will keep for a week if well wrapped and placed in
refrigerator, before being soaked with syrup and decorated.