Apple Tart, Jacques Pepin

Jacques Pepin is a great chef, whom I respect very much. I always enjoy his PBS show and still learn a few tips from the show almost every time I watch, even though I have cooked professionally with great chefs for many years. His classic training, impeccable work experiences, and extensive knowledge of food/culture/history make him one of the truly great chefs of today. His recipes are great for home cooks as well as pros, expend little on frills, but always bring good results and are a joy to cook. I own many of his books and videos and never get tired of reading them again. In fact, his books and videos are important references for my work.

This simple, yet delicious recipe is from his mother's unique dough making.

Beverage to accompany:  apple cider, black tea (e.g., Earl Grey), or a semi-sweet or sweet Madeira or Marsala.

Maman's Apple Tart (makes one tart, 6-8 servings)
Adapted from Jacques Pepin's biography, The Apprentice, My Life in the Kitchen.

For dough:
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 large egg, broken into a small bowl and beaten with fork
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
3 tablespoons vegetable shortening (such as Crisco)
pinch of salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 tablespoons hot milk

For filling:
4 large golden delicious apples (about 2 pounds)
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, broken into pieces

For the Dough: Preheat the oven to 400 F. Put all the dough ingredients except the hot milk into a mixing bowl. Stir well with a wooden spoon until the mixture starts to combine. Add the hot milk, and stir until well mixed. Do not overwork. The dough will be very soft. Place it in a 9-inch pie plate (or fluted metal quiche pan), and, using your fingers and a little flour to keep them from sticking, press dough into the pan until it covers the bottom and sides.

For the Filling: Peel, core and halve the apples. Cut each half into 1 1/2-inch wedges. Arrange the wedges on the dough like the spokes of a wheel. Sprinkle with the sugar, and top with the butter pieces.

Bake the tart in the middle of the oven for approximately 50 minutes, or until the crust is golden. Serve it lukewarm.

Note:  His original recipe states to preheat the oven to 425 degrees and bake for about 1 hour. I reduced both temperature and time on the recipe. My house oven may be stronger than his. Also I did not use vegetable shortening, but a total of 6-tablespoons butter for above photograph. I like to serve this apple tart with a little sweetened whipped cream.

Soba Noodle with Yakitori Chicken

A couple months ago I saw this dish in New Hope 360's Delicious Living magazine and thought it was a good way to introduce my friends to Japanese buckwheat noodles. I grew up in Tokyo, which means I ate soba noodles a few times a week. In most seasons, they are normally served in a bowl with clear dashi (seafood broth made from dried bonito fish and kelp seaweed) topped with shrimp tempura (my favorite). But in the hot summer, they are served cold (no broth) and dipped in a slightly sweet cold sauce made from soy sauce, mirin (cooking sake) and dashi. Japanese don't eat soba the way it's prepared in the DL recipe, but I think it is definitely a good version for my American friends. It's basically Japanese-style "grilled chicken pasta," and I thought I would enjoy it too. Yakitori means skewered grilled chicken. In Japan, there are many Yakitori-only restaurants or pubs where they cook different parts of the chicken, including liver and heart... all served on skewers. These places are normally inexpensive, and, like sushi bars, the chefs grill food in front of you over the counter. It's great fun to watch, and the irresistible smell fills the air inside and out to the street. Yakitori is traditionally paired with hot sake in winter and cold sake or chilled beer in summer.

Wine recommendations:
White: Chenin Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc (see page 2 of link), Pinot Grigio.
Red: Grenache (see p 2).

Soba Noodle with Yakitori Chicken
(Serves 4)

Recipe is adapted from Delicious Living magazine, January 2012

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs or breasts, cut into1-inch pieces
8 small bamboo skewers, pre-soaked in water
4 teaspoons low-sodium soy sauce, divided
4 teaspoons honey, divided
2 tablespoons sesame oil, divided
8 ounces soba noodles
2 cups snow peas or cut asparagus, blanched
4-5 scallions (white and green), sliced on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces
1/2 pound button, cremini or shiitake mushroom
1 (about 1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons canola oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons white sesame seeds, for garnish

1. Preheat grill or broiler. Thread chicken onto skewers, leaving a bit of space between pieces.
Season lightly with salt and peppe.
2. In a small bowl, mix 2 teaspoons soy sauce, honey and 1 tablespoon sesame oil. Brush chicken with the mixture liberally. Grill or broil for about 4-5 minutes per side or until cooked through.
3. While chicken is cooking, bring a large pot of water (about 4 quarts) to boil and cook noodles al dente,  about 5-6 minutes.
4. Heat remaining sesame and oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat, and cook scallions and mushrooms until tender and lightly browned, about 4-5 minutes. Add ginger, garlic and snow peas; stir for 1 minute. Add remaining soy sauce, honey and drained Soba noodles, and stir well. Season to taste with black pepper and soy sauce. You may add a little chili pepper if you like.
To serve, divide noodles among four plates and top with Yakitori chicken.

 

Cheese Puffs and Potato Gratin

I wrote about good winter cheeses a couple months ago, and I was going to post this article immediately after that, but unfortunately I forgot. Well, the weather is still cold, so today I would like to introduce a couple very simple and tasty warm dishes using those delicious cheeses.
 
Cheese Puff - Gougères are small, bite-sized puffs (just like the shape of cream puffs, but using cheeses instead of pastry cream). They are easy to make and you can create your own Gougères with a single kind of cheese or two or three (e.g., mozzarella, Cheddar, etc.) and add minced chives, parsley, even chopped ham, to create your own. Serve with a "casual" sparkling wine (French Crémante, Italian Prosecco, or Spanish Cava), or a light-bodied still white wine (Pinot Gris/Grigio, Gewürztraminer if using chili powder, or Chenin Blanc).

Gratin Dauphinois is a popular potato gratin served at almost every bistro and home in France (see the origin of the name Dauphin here). The basic ingredients are just potato, cream and cheese. You may substitute milk instead of cream, or omit cream/milk all together and use some butter if you prefer. They may also be spiced up with something you like. Whatever you do, it's tough to flub this, and the irresistible smell will fill up the entire room before you even taste it.

Cheese Puffs - Gougères

Makes about 20 Gourères

1/2 cup (125ml) water
4 tablespoons (55g) butter, salted or unsalted, cut into cubes
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (75g) flour
2 large eggs    

1 cup (about 3 ounces or 85g) grated Comté or Gruyere cheese
2-3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese for topping (optional)

1/4 teaspoon freshly-ground black pepper
1 pinch of freshly-grated nutmeg or chili powder (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 375 F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium saucepan, combine the water, butter and salt until the butter is melted. Add the flour all at once and stir it vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture pulls away from the sides into a smooth ball. Remove from heat and let rest a couple minutes.

2. Add the eggs, one at a time, stirring quickly and mixing thoroughly between each one. The batter will first look lumpy, but after a couple minutes it will smooth out.

3. Add about 3/4 of the grated cheeses, and stir until well-mixed. Mix in the pepper and nutmeg if using them.

4. Transfer the dough into a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch round tip, and pipe the dough into mounds (you may use a small ice cream scoop instead), evenly-spaced apart about 2-inches, making each about the size of a cherry tomato.

5. Top each puff with a bit of the remaining cheeses and Parmesan cheese.

7. Bake for 20-22 minutes or until puffed and golden brown. Serve warm, or let cool and reheat in 350 F oven until warm  -- about a few minutes.

Gratin Dauphinois (French Potato Gratin)

One shallow, 6-cup (1.5 qt) gratin dish

1 clove of garlic

2 pounds baking potatoes, such as russet, peeled and very thinly sliced

1 cup (about 3 oz) freshly grated Comté or Gruyère cheese

1 cup heavy cream

freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

2. Thoroughly rub a gratin dish with the garlic. Layer half of potatoes in the dish. Sprinkle with half of cheese and then half of cream. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add another layer, using the rest of the cheese and cream. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

3. Bake, uncovered, until the gratin is crisp and golden on the top, about 40-45 minutes.

Green Lasagna Bolognese

A long time ago when I first tasted Green Lasagna in Bologna, Italy, I really enjoyed it and have been a big fan ever since. Using spinach pasta and white bechamel sauce ("Balasmella," instead of using tomato sauce) makes for a nice spring-like look and a fresh and light taste. Creamy Balasmella and Italian cheeses together are truly the “Holy trinity.” I was told green lasagna is classic and very popular in Bologna. 

For this recipe I make the Meat Sauce first, and then the Balasmella (cream sauce), and set both aside in a warm place. Then I work on the pasta sheets. If you can find fresh green pasta sheets, it saves time, but it's nice to make your own pasta. Using a standing mixer, such as Kitchen Aid, can make it easier.  Serve the Lasagna with a garden salad and rustic bread such as Ciabatta or Focaccia. For wine I recommend Chianti (aka Sangiovese) from Tuscany, Valpolicella from Veneto, or Barbera from Piedmonte (all reds); or a white such as Soave, Pinot Bianco or Sauvignon Blanc.

Green Lasagna alla Bolognese

8-10 Servings (using a 9-by-13 inch baking dish)

Meat Sauce (makes about 4 cups):

1 ounce dried porcini mushroom, soaked in water and chopped (optional)

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

1 large carrot, finely chopped

1 large celery rib, finely chopped

1 medium garlic clove, minced

¼ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

¼ pound skinless chicken or Italian pork sausage, chopped

½ pound lean ground beef

¼ pound lean ground pork

½ cup dry white wine

1 cup beef broth or chicken broth

2 tablespoon tomato paste

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Freshly grated nutmeg

Balsamella:

6 tablespoons (80g) unsalted butter

½ cup (80g) unbleached all-purpose flour

4 cups (1 quart) whole or 2% fat milk

Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Freshly grated nutmeg

Spinach Pasta:

¾ pound fresh spinach, stemmed, cooked, squeezed dry and chopped

4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (about 600g)

4 extra-large eggs

3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon olive oil

pinch of salt

Cheeses:

1 ¾ cups shredded mozzarella (about ½ pound)

1 ½ cups freshly grated parmesan cheese (about 5 ounces)

Combine the cheeses in a bowl.

Instructions:

Meat Sauce

1.      In a small bowl, soak the porcini in 1 ½ cup of lukewarm water until softened, about 30 minutes.

2.      Meanwhile, heat olive oil in large saucepan. Add onion, carrots, celery, garlic and parsley and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until soft... about 6 minutes.

3.      Add the chicken sausage, ground beef and pork to the vegetables in the pan. Cook over moderate heat, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon, until cooked through, about 6 minutes. Squeeze the porcini and chop, then add to the pan of meat and vegetables.

4.      Add the wine and simmer until almost evaporated, about a few minutes. Stir in 1 cup of the broth and tomato paste. Lower the heat and simmer gently for 10-12 minutes. Set aside in a warm place.

Balsamella (cream sauce)

1.      Heat the milk until hot in a medium sauce pan and set aside, but keep it hot.

2.      Melt the butter in a heavy medium saucepan until frothy. Add the flour and stir over moderate-low heat (don't let it brown) for a few minutes.

3.      Quickly add the hot milk to the butter and flour mixture, stirring constantly in the same direction with a wooden spoon to prevent lumps from forming.

4.      Bring to a boil over moderate heat while stirring, and simmer for few minutes. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Set aside keeping it warm, whisking occasionally.

Making the Spinach Pasta

1.      Bring a large pot of water with salt to a boil. Add the spinach and cook until very tender, about a few minutes. Drain, rinse in cold water and squeeze dry. Finely chop the spinach; you should have ½ (packed) cup.

2.      Mound the flour on work surface and make a well in the center. Add the eggs, spinach, 2 tablespoons olive oil and ½ teaspoon salt to the well and mix with a fork. 

3.      Gradually draw in the flour from the inner rim of the well until almost half has been incorporated. Begin kneading in the remaining flour, using the palms of your hands. Continue kneading until the dough is smooth.

4.      Cut the pasta dough into 4 equal pieces; work with 1 piece at a time and keep the remaining pieces of dough covered with a clean kitchen towel.

5.      Flatten the dough and dust it lightly with flour. Roll it through a pasta machine set on the widest setting. Fold the dough in thirds, press down, flour lightly and continue rolling the dough through the machine until the dough is very smooth.

6.      Lower the setting one or two notch and repeat the process, rolling the dough once through successively narrower settings until you reach the thinnest one.

7.      Drape the pasta sheet flat on clean kitchen towels. Roll out the remaining pieces of dough in the same manor.

8.      Bring a large pot of water (5-6 quarts) to a boil and add salt. Fill a large mixing bowl with cold water and 2 tablespoons olive oil.

9.      Meanwhile, using a large knife cut the sheet of pasta crosswise into 7-8 inch lengths.

10.   Drop 5 to 6 of the pasta pieces into the boiling water for 10 seconds. Transfer to the bowl of cold water to cool. Drain the cooked pasta pieces side by side on a damp kitchen towel. Repeat the process with remaining pasta, arranging the pieces on towels in a single layer.

Assembling the Lasagna

Preheat oven to 375°F.

1.      Generously butter a 9-by 12-inch glass or ceramic baking dish. Spread 2 heaping tablespoons of meat sauce in the bottom of the dish. Cover the bottom and sides of the dish with slightly overlapping pasta pieces, allowing about 2-inches to hang over the edge of the dish.

2.      Spread one-third of the cream sauce and sprinkle some of the cheese mixture on top. Cover with another layer of pasta and spread half of meat sauce. Cover with another layer of the pasta, then cream sauce and sprinkle with cheese. Continue layering the pasta and the remaining meat sauce, then cover with pasta again, ending with a layer of cream sauce and cheese, covered with pasta. Fold the overhanging pasta over top of the lasagna.

3.      Cover the lasagna loosely with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Uncover and bake for another 15-20 minutes until the lasagna is heated through and the top is lightly browned.

4.      Let cool for 15 minutes at room temperature before serving.

Cheeses for Winter

These cheeses are all semi-firm or firm textured, made from cow's milk and produced in the mountains or highland regions of France and Switzerland. Dairy farming is one of the oldest food production practices, and highland regions are particularly famous for making good cheeses where pasture contains fresh green grasses and wildflowers, particularly during spring and summer.

These cheeses are often made into large wheels or cylinders (preserved for the cold winter), and some are massive. Swiss Emmental wheels can be 6-10 inches thick, 44 inches in diameter and weigh over 120 pounds! These cheeses are also cured and aged for a long time -- normally 3 months to over 12 months. They are traditionally made with raw milk, which has not been homogenized or cooked/pasteurized by high heat (meaning less shelf-life for the retailers). That is why they are so tasty!

Those who like firm Cheddar cheese textures may discover a new favorite among these European classics.  They also melt well, and Gruyere and Emmental are important in traditional Swiss Fondue. Cantal and Comete are good with baked potato or gratin dishes and hearty soups.  

Cantal (France)

This oldest of the French cheeses dates back to Roman times. The cheese is shaped like a cylinder, one foot in diameter and about 20 lbs. The two types of Cantal are Cantal fermier (farmhouse cheese using raw milk) and Cantal laitier (a mass-produced version). Recently, Cantal has appealed to more and more cheese lovers because of its natural, rustic, tangy flavor that isn't too sharp, just creamy and mild. It comes from Auvergne, a region known for its fertile pasture lands. The well-ripened Cantal has a bolder, more vigorous taste, while the younger versions are sweeter and more creamy.

Aligot is a famous regional dish of mashed potatoes mixed with Cantal. It is also great for French onion gratin soup (instead of Gruyère or Cometè) and for grilled cheese sandwiches. Recommended wines for pairing:  Cote d'Auvergne, Chateauguay, Vouvray, (moelleux [medium sweet] or demi-sec [medium dry]), Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc.

The Cantal in the picture was purchased at Whole Foods Market for $16.99 a pound. 

Comté (France)

 

Comté (also called Gruyere de Comté) is a cooked, pressed cow's milk cheese produced in the Jura mountains in the east of France. It has the largest production of any AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlée) cheese in France (just like AOC wine, but for specific cow’s milk, because areas of production are regulated). More than 50,000 tons of Comté are made each year. The depth of flavor experienced when you bite into a piece of Comté comes from the diversity of the milk sources (from cooperatives that buy milk from small farmers throughout the region).

Long ago, people of this mountainous region (as in Switzerland) were faced with the need to preserve food for the long winter. By pooling their resources (cow's milk), they could create cheese in large wheels that could be stored many months and feed a lot of people.The wheels still weigh about 80 pounds and require about 530 liters of milk (daily production of 30 cows). The long maturing period, called affinage, takes from 4 months to over 12 months, during which time the cheese is regularly cleaned and rubbed with salted water.

Comté cheese is firm-textured with a mellow, nutty flavor. It's great on its own or served with a dry white wine such as Sauvignon Blanc or a light red wine, and accompanied with nuts, dried fruits and a good rustic country bread. As with all cheese, it should be served at room temperature (you may need to bring it out from refrigerator at least a couple hours).  

The Comté in the photo above is aged 6 months and costs $10.99/lb. at Trader Joe’s.

Morbier (France)

Morbier is a semi-soft cow’s milk cheese from the Jura mountains. It is named after the small village Morbier (Swiss border) in France's Comté region. This uncooked cheese is pressed, ripened for two months and then brushed with salty water. It is easy to recognize by the dark stripe of ash separating it horizontally in the middle of the paste. The aroma is pungent and a bit strong, but the flavor is rich, sweet and a little nutty.  

Morbier cheese dates back more than two centuries. Producers of Comté wanted to make a smaller cheese for their own consumption with leftover milk from making Comté. Each night, soot/ash was sprinkled on the fresh curd that remained at the bottom of the barrel to prevent a rind from forming and keep insects away. The next day, another leftover piece of cheese was put on top to complete the Morbier. 

Try this cheese either straight or melted, served with a mild bread, nut and fruits . It will make all cheese lovers very happy! Recommended wines: Sauvignon Blanc, white wine from Jura and light red wine.

I purchased the cheese in the picture above at Whole Foods Market for $13.99/lb.